Little House on the Rue

I thought I would entertain you with more tidbits about the overpriced itty bitty apartment on Rue Joubert.

Thought you might like to see a picture of the bathroom. Why? Because there are some things about it that are fascinating. First, anyone who introduces a shower door/curtain concept to Europe will make a fortune. I have heard we are lucky to have this half glass thing in the shower, but it does not stop the floor from getting soaked. One day, in fact, I created a little tidal pool after washing my hair. When I opened my eyes there were L&P having a great time splashing in the waves up to their knees. I used our allotment of towels for the week to dry the floor. So now, though the tub is 12 feet long, I take a shower within three inches of the shower head to make sure I don't create another flood. And could someone send us a washcloth or two? They also seem to be missing in France. You will not find one anywhere. I have no explanation for that one.

Notice in the mirror reflection that there is an awful lot of clothes hanging on what we think is a towel warmer. That's because we live in The Little House on the Rue. There are no facilities to do laundry here nor is there a laundry nearby. Perhaps that is why the giant department stores have tons of underwear and socks? No one washes, they just replace them?

We can have our stuff sent out to the Pressing/Laundry and it costs a lot. For example- a men's shirt in the U.S. would cost a couple of bucks to clean and press. Here it is about 6E which is about $9 George Bush inflated dollars. Undies are pretty expensive too. Socks, not so much. So, I find myself doing laundry by hand almost everyday. Everytime I gather it all I think of the creek on Little House. Sigh.

And just to make it all the more fun, the service our hotel uses is not a French laundry. I just found that out yesterday when they came back with dress shirts yet again folded in paper instead of on hangers, including one newly felted cashmere sweater. Turns out that it is a Chinese laundry and the French desk staff are lacking in their Chinese speaking skills. So here we were thinking it was a language issue, trying to translate our simple dry clean instructions into French so they will be clearly understood never imagining...........

And last, but important, P has asked me to rate the bathroom on Rue Joubert a good old 9. She stands outside the shower every morning withher tongue hanging out - which I finally learned meant that she was catching the shower spray just for kicks. Now, that is a Boston Terrier.

La Poste by Any Other Name be Post Office

Just when I was getting a little bit homesick, I made the journey to La Poste. And then I wasn't homesick anymore. First, they are rarely open. Sound familiar? Next, the line stretches out the door. Again, familiar. And third, many windows and few postal clerks. Makes you wonder if there is universal Postal training?

I was just buying postcard stamps. I am not sure what she gave me really. I asked if she spoke English (my polite Bonjour, Pardon, Parlez-vous Anglais?) and got a oui. Well good. That helps. But not really, because her sole mastery of English was nodding her head. Honest. Not a word. But the head nod. Perhaps she understood more than she could speak? After all, I showed her the postcards, said to the United States, and she handed me the ten stamps I asked for.

Meantime, Miss L&P are with me and we did not get tossed out which is very different than the US. I would have gotten a picture, but the place was depressingly similar to what we all know a Post Office looks like. And I didn't dare let go because although they were coupled together on the lead, P was engaging in some sort of crazy dog ritual with a very elderly person in line behind us. I am doing my best to keep her from knocking the woman over and poor L was just minding her own business which is hard to do when Tigger is attached to your coupler. Turns out when I looked at Grandma finally, she was egging P on like a champ with a little gleam in her eye. Poor P never had a chance. Like sticking a wad of used chewing gum on the ground 3 inches from the end of her leash. Spastic dog. Finally I gave the Grandma impersonator "the look" and P the short leash, and they both ceased misbehaving.

I really want to send some packages home, but I didn't dare press my luck this time. And then I get back to the itty bitty apt. and find out that the postage should be more than what she sold me. Zut. So if I sent you a postcard (and how would you know Zach and Zander?) sorry if it never gets there. Who knows. Maybe it was discount stamp sale day?

L&P had differing opinions about this experience. First, L requested that we never ever take directions from the pretty girl at the front desk again because that was a very long walk to get to La Poste which is two blocks away. We walked about 10 blocks to get there. Perhaps her grasp of left and right in English is not all that. And P requested Grandma's phone number. P rates the trip a nice big fat 8 because of very cool Grandma and the Yorkie she almost got to eat for snack. L would like to rate the trip a miserable 3 and requests that the coupler be destroyed by any means possible.

From the Roof of Printemps Before the Storms

For almost three weeks now, Momo has found her way delicately through Printemps and Galeries Lafayette because it is simply very easy to enter these places and never be seen again. They are large, laid out without a hint of logic, and take up city blocks in multiple buildings with underground passages. So Momo had never been to the rooftop at Printemps until she and Dad wandered up together (of course bringing a compass and a map just in case). Turns out to be one of the coolest places to hang out within footsteps of our apartment . It has a little cafeteria inside and outside a tiny little bar with tiny little plastic tables. But all around the edge are benches facing a fantastic view of Paris. And of course, the rooftop discovery occurred in between rain and T-S which were unlike Momo and Dad had seen in many years - since Vermont. This is one photo of Le Madeleine and the Rue which we walk regularly to get to the square. Everything in Paris is close enough to walk to - seriously - even the Eiffel though it lurks far away. As long as you stop at cafes along the way for refreshments, it is easy to walk the day away. Even L&P agree as long as they get lots of treats and bottled Vittel eau. Dad is working on a panoramic photo from the rooftop stitching it together. C'est tres bien. We will return there often.

Meet Baby Fabio - on Holiday

Momo and Dad took a walk before the thunder storms on Saturday to find lunch. L&P wished to nap at home because it was wet outside - everyone knows BTs are sensitive when it comes to getting their toes wet on purpose. Momo and Dad ended up tired and hungry at Laduree again. Though there were surges of stand-about tourists waiting for pastry, Momo and Dad quickly got a table in the tearoom. And so apparently did Baby Fabio, complete with Mrs. Robinson from Italy, both seemingly on holiday. Momo took a picture, pretending to take snapshot of Dad across the table but at the last second moved the camera to take a snap of Baby-Fabio-in-training. Mostly Fabio just sat and pouted. The pout is captured in le photo. Pouting and sipping his drink lasted an hour. His arrival stopped conversation and all heads turned when they first entered the tearoom, which in Paris, is quite unusual. Mostly it was the outfit, but the rest of him, if only you could see the pants, would have stopped traffic anywhere. Momo was most amused, because after all, this was Laduree, the tearoom where white gloves are never out of season. When Momo got back and told L&P about Baby Fabio, they demanded to see the photo. They suggested Momo rate lunch at Laduree, just for entertainment value, a very hearty 9.

L&P Take a Drive Through Paris

L&P took Momo and Dad for a drive this morning in rush hour to get the tire repaired on the leased auto. They let Dad drive. It seems he drives way better in Paris than he does in San Francisco. His excuse: Paris makes sense. Huh???? L&P spent the time attached to seat belts in the rear seat but they could still stand up and look out the windows. They had many opportunities to let the large number of motor scooters know just what they thought of how they drive. Woof. If you have a scooter you may drive anywhere apparently- on the sidewalk, in the street, zigging between cars and my favorite: folding back someone's side-view mirror so the scooter can fit between the cars that are standing still, stuck in the traffic. It was a fun ride on the road next to the Seine and past the Eiffel Tower base (which looms large as do all these big things here). L&P spent most the ride alternately trying to one up each other woofing at passing scooters, or growling at bicycles that thought they were eco-scooters (wizard of oz anyone?)

Turns out, though Dad had an appointment at the Peugeot place, the repair was not necessary so we were there for five minutes. Sadly, we had hoped to take the above ground M back home, but now we would have to drive once again. L&P did not mind at all. As I write this, L&P are snoozing next to me and P is obviously dreaming of her encounter with les scooters because she is doing little dream woofs.

The parking garage is near our apartment, but it is underground of course. The entrance is actually a straight-line chute that sends you down 4-6 stories underground. It looks like a matchbox car chute and feels like one too. P gets so excited when we do this, the minute we are out of the car she commemorates the ride with a poop. That's a puppy for you. L then gives her the peevish stink eye for bad manners(one waits to poop until they are on the street). I can just imagine what that poop bag smells like at the end of a long hot day 6 stories under. But hey, mixed with piss odor in the stair well, doesn't matter. Did I mention the elevator is often not working?

So what does one do after an invigorating outing such as this? Why, trot over to Galeries Lafayette and have a nice cafe creme or cafe express. L&P rate the early morning drive through Paris as a 10 because frankly, they have driven with Dad in San Francisco.

Who Knew Getting Home on the Wrong M Could be so Entertaining...

The Metro that took us back was a little out of the way, oh, by a mile or so. So we were walking again and the dinner break had done nothing for my aching feet. Finally approaching the bottom of Rue Joubert opposite our end where there is the old stone church I can see the end in sight. But wait. Before I see the end I see something way more interesting. And here we are almost 11:30PM and I spy a woman way way older than me on the corner with platinum blond hair – first clue - most French women are brunette– in a mini glitter skirt and four inch heels. All alone and cooling her heels, so to speak. And suddenly my stupid feet didn’t hurt at all. Hookers. Lots and lots of hookers on our little Rue Joubert. As far from the church end as you could get. Very glittery and festive. And it was a busy night. They certainly didn’t need to advertise. By the time we had passed them a minute later, one was strolling away with some guy and another was chatting up some other dude in a Smart car going the wrong way down the street (stupid guy in Smart car?). So for the last few blocks going home, my feet stopped hurting and I quit thinking about Le Louvre. Now that was fun. I discussed it with L&P and they said I needed to rate the M and the long walk home a good old 7 and to skip the rating on dinner until they had a chance to go back with us. Sorry, no pictures this time.........

Dinner at Le Louvre

Here is a bigger picture of Le Louvre and the Pyramid (mon dieu) and on the left (the porch?) is where we ate. Dinner at Le Louvre was better than our dinner at Hediards which is much like Fauchon, a gourmet food shop. Dinner at Hediards was forgettable since it was two days ago and I don’t remember what I ate. I do know that the “French portions are smaller” rule is a myth. Not anywhere have we found that to be true. We are served enough food most times to serve a family of four. And just try to take the food to go. First your waiter gets a bit nervous and fidgets and asks: “To go?- how do you mean, to go?”. Then the kitchen gets a little nervous because they do not know how to pack it all up. The only time it worked is when we insisted and it was smooshed in tin foil and popped into a kitchen person's leftover department store shopping bag.

Anyway dinner at the Le Louvre was quite peachy. We each order an entrée because we are very hungry. The menu is entirely in French and we need little help, which means that our French is improving in the food area. Of course it is- ask me anything about food. Again, the entrees were gigantic. I had tomato/mozzarella and the Dad had green beans with mushrooms. His plate of green beans was the family sized portion but L&P were not joining us. I had, count them, two giant tomatoes (left whole) and three enourmous slices of mozza. And two basil leaves. That was strange. But dinner itself was much better. I ordered lamb, and I have never had lamb that tasted this good. The meats are very good here. And the serving was tiny which was nice. That is, until they plopped the plate of green beans down. Again, where’s the family when you need them? We did not stay for desert because again, 12 out of 10 people were lighting up and it was late. People were pouring out of the museum now because it was closing and they were looking for dinner and a smoke. Soon, our dining row was filling up and it was a good time to leave unless we wanted dinner companions. Too late to share the green beans though. But not too late to find a Metro.

L&P Send Momo and Dad to Le Louvre

As we started out I figured that Dad knew where we were catching the M. Turns out we were not catching any M. We were walking. Did I say that my feet or more specifically my ankles were not happy? Ah, I thought I had. Out loud. Several times. Apparently not. So finally I asked which M we were catching and half way there Dad looks surprised and says that he thought I wanted to walk. Huh? Oh, sure. Momo. Wants to walk. Since we were already at Madeleine and almost to Place Vendome and across from the Tullieries and the long walk through it to the Le Louvre, I just sucked it up. And btw, how do 12 out of 10 people smoke? All the way there. No wait, 14 out of 10. Some were lighting up the next one(s) while the first one was still puffing vile smoke. And here we are, finally in the gardens. Big trees, paths, and wait. What’s that smell? Oh, flowers? Nooo. Trees? Noooo. Ah. Zoo. The garden path on the way to the Le Louvre smells like a zoo. But that’s crazy, because there is no zoo around there. So why, I ask? Ah, says dear old Dad. Yes, that’s the smell. So familiar. So lovely as it is and as much as my feet parts hurt, we hustle along to the Le Louvre which looks like it is right there. It looms large. And looms. And looms some more. Just how far away is that thing?! It looks like you should be there any second, but I swear the thing moves farther away each step you take toward it. And good thing we hustled. A very very small man in a suit was reeling in the large gate from the garden to the plaza in front of Le Louvre and if we had strolled slower we might have missed getting in that entrance.

So up the few steps to the plaza and there it is, still looming, but closer this time. And it is breathtaking, the giant U shaped beauty. You must start from one end and work your way to the other to take it all in. And wait. What the hell? Is that? A friggin glass pyramid? Yes, I knew about it, but I didn’t expect it to be so well, there. It actually stops your sweep as you gaze at the beautiful stone work, carvings and all that make up the Le Louvre. It stops you cold. Frowning I wanted to make it go away. But alas, it is stuck there. What a really stupid idea. It reminds me of a shopping mall. Oh. There is a shopping mall under it. Knew it. This is a picture of Le Louvre. It cannot do it justice, but here it is nonetheless.

It is 8:30PM and time for the French dinner hour. Fortunately for us, there is a restaurant called Marly’s Café sitting on the porch of one side of Le Louvre. Can you call something like that a porch? We were having dinner at Le Louvre. The view of Le Louvre was breathtaking. The stonework is art. The pyramid, an oversight. We promise to bring L&P to the plaza and take a picture of them at the Louvre. They will appreciate the fountain and all the stuff on the sidewalk buffet.

Starbucks in Paris? Mon Dieu - L&P Not Happy

Starbucks by any other name is still the same old-old. There are a few around Paris and one a few steps from our door. We had vowed not to go the Starbucks routine while in Paris, but then we figured, perhaps they actually knew how to make coffee here unlike they do at home.

So in I went with L&P and was promptly tossed out. No dogs. What???? In France? Are you kidding me? It isn’t even in a free standing building, but attached to one of those passage way groups of shops with all the fronts opening to the passage, so if you enter Starbucks, it means your feet are barely out of the passageway. So we left (after ordering our drink they tell us that). Fortunately I had not paid for it yet. Apparently Starbucks thinks it is operating with the US health codes???

L&P can visit almost any restaurant, even Laduree, a stuffy white glove tearoom. So, sending Starbucks a big fat raspberry from the L&P adventures in Paris. L&P rate them a big fat 0. Thank goodness we have Pete’s Coffee &Tea at home and can continue to boycott them.

From the EIffel to the Opera we Hike

As we started out on the Seine hike, Dad thought we should commemorate the moment with a photo of the L&P and the Seine with the Eiffel. For a treat, L&P would dance on the head of a pin. It is a very pretty walk, but again, laden with lots of tourists who apparently come from places where they do not have dogs. L&P patiently posed for several photos. If we charged for these photos these two could pay for our trip already. Or go to Harvard. At this magnificent bridge, Pont Alexandre III, with stone lions and all kinds of cool things with Seine and the Musee de la something in the background, a photographer was taking pictures of a wedding party, and other folks were doing the same - until they spotted L&P. Then the cameras turned and they were dazzled with flashbulbs and clicking shutters. Do you think there are few dogs in Europe? The bride looked a little peevish so we hurried away. We came to Place de la Concorde where the beginning of the tuileries are (the big giant garden). We walked through the giant gates and didn't get far before we were tossed out. Apparently the sign (which is not at the entrance, but on the side of the garden a block from the entrance) has a picture of a dog with a leash in its mouth. Umm - no dogs off leash? No dogs with a leash? No dog walking itself? I guess it means no dogs unless it's Toto in a basket. So we walked around the garden to Place Vendome, stopped for more treats and made it back to Rue Joubert, tired, dusty and hot, but happy. L&P rated the walk a 5 because we did not let them partake of the sidewalk buffet, neither the poop delights or the chewing gum nor the leftover bread. They did however, rate the brasserie stop at Place Vendome a big old 8 because they were able to snack, drink and nap all in the comfort of our laps. The Americans next to us were aghast that we let P rest her head on the table to nap while the waiter brought them some water and made sure to put our coffee away from her reach. I love the French.

And Onto the City Hike

L&P were used to Metros so when we started walking, as soon as we came to a Metro Station, one or the other of them dove for the stairs thinking that this should be the one. Ha. That went on the entire distance and that made for a long long walk. L, of course, would stink eye her Momo and Dad often as we moved them past the Metro Stations. Like she knew what was in store. We began after lunch at Victor Hugo and made our way toward the Seine. We strolled though many lovely neighborhoods full of children and families and dog poop. I had been waiting to find dog poop, and well, there it was. P was in heaven. A very short leash for her. L was peevish as usual when she encounters bad manners. There were some great views. We would turn a corner and suddenly there would be the Eiffel standing tall. We passed many parks, narrow streets piled with bumper to bumper parked cars - which always makes me wonder how they get out of parking spaces - levitate? Or really strong bumpers? P needed a carry now and then because she would actually just stop. Momo wanted to stop many times. It was warm, it was humid, and it was apparent that Dad was only reckoning by French map standards, which translates to "somewhere that way". His French is also improving and soon I expect he will only talk to me in French. Mon dieu. Sure enough, he was correct and we soon found ourselves down by the Eiffel Tower and the Seine. We stopped for cafe at our favorite brassierie in that neighborhood and a snack. The puppies took the opportunity to nap in our laps. Staring at the monument, drinking cafe creme and express (that would be coffee with milk and an espresso) a gentleman from somewhere, not France, not US, came up to us with his camera - pointed to L&P and showed us his digital screen featuring none other than the L&P at Place Vendome a few days earlier. He was one of the photographers who took pictures of the girls when we set them up (see the earlier blog). Yikes. What a small world after all. He was so excited to see them again, and like any good tired BT, they opened one eye and gave him the stink eye-you be bothering my nap-stare. Taking the hint, he said good bye (or so we think) and then was off. Yes, L&P are pretty darn cute, but why do people take pictures of them? You'd think they had never seen a dog before? L&P rate the walk to the Brasserie by the Eiffel as a 7. They got a nice nap and a good snack and a good potty break.

Lunch Always Helps

Post pet store we stopped on Victor Hugo for lunch at well, Victor Hugo Brasserie. Easy to remember. And not for the food. Here are the L&P with Dad enjoying some lunch. P was very tired by then (and we had only just begun). Being the puppy she is, napping with her head on the table is typical. Her sister thought that was pretty darn rude and here you can see her little peevish look. Often she has that look when her sister does puppy stuff. We so enjoy it.

Momo tried another Crouque Monsieur because she is obsessed with finding the perfect one. Truth be told, she does not even enjoy grilled cheese at home, so why she keeps ordering them is a mystery. Dad, who cannot not eat gluten, is making his way through a myriad of odd salads. So far, the strangest is the one with sausage, wine sauce, poached egg, greens, watercress, mushrooms, and then a bit of vinigrette. Odd indeed. Let me get the recipe.

It was a nice neighborhood, and not crowded with tourists. More fun to people watch. L&P did not rate it. They thought it should just be itself and not a number.

Nary a Puppy Supply Shop with Fun Stuff

L&P walked their mighty little legs off yesterday. We began on the Metro in search of two dog shops that Momo cleverly found on the French Yellow Pages. If only she could read French, her enthusiasm might wane once she translated the text. The first shop, a two Metro ride away, was a dog Salon! Sigh. Next, another Metro ride from there, we located the second one which had a website and picture showing lots of clothes and things. Oh oh. Another "guideline" taken with a wide angle lens apparently because they shop was as small as my apt. kitchen. And yes, they had some clothes, but the kind you might find at Petsmart and for 18x the price. Toys? Non. Just a few things that should have been 1E but were many Euros more. Sigh. We needed toenail clippers for the L because they grow like weeds and I was so sure that there would be many Pet supply shops that I did not pack them. Oops. Good thing she is walking a bunch - nothing like concrete for a little filing. So after that disappointing experience we began our day hoping to make it more fun than how we started. And it was. L&P thought the pet store stuff was a big fat zero. But enjoyed the rest of the day as you will see.

Oh Internet Oh Internet - Where for art thou.......

Not here. Apparently in France the Internet is like a guideline. Or a good thought. It might be here or it might not. And when they get around to restoring it is anyone's guess. This past round was almost two days. Momo sure was feeling it. Even the wireless French Telecom was not feeling very connected either. So alas, if the blog is not updated it is not because I have forgotten you dear readers (umm, I hope there are readers!). I will post each day that the internet is alive and kicking.

Dear Google - please wire Paris! Thanks. Momo.

Eating in the Rain

After walking for miles certain to come upon the place that has fabulous breakfast, Momo and Dad found us a brasserie that was open on Ascention Day (I think that is what it is called) which means the owner was not at Church? As you can see in the pictures, L&P got cozy with their very own café au laits and basket of bread. The waiter gave L&P two thumbs up and said they were very cute. L&P shared Momo and Dad’s steak and pomme frite which were very very good. After that everyone was in a much finer mood even though it was really raining by then. Miles later everyone arrived home and L&P promptly took to the couch and napped away the tres bon lunch. L&P rate Dick’s Brasserie a big 10 for both yummy food and very appreciative wait staff. And L requested that we give her a little warning before we take a photo so she remembers to open her eyes.......she says she was busy breathing in the aroma of the cafe au lait!

L&P Walk to Place Vendome

L&P celebrate another French holiday by taking Momo and Dad for a very long hike to Place Vendome which is where the Ritz and other boring shops are located. Here is a photo of L&P in front of the Ritz looking out across Place Vendome. They are searching for the breakfast place everyone talks about and calls the fabulous breakfast place. Apparently it hasn’t a name because we did not find anything that said breakfast. That made L&P unhappy. Of course as soon as Momo and Dad began with the photos so did a crowd as well. Bored to tears L&P could not figure out why all those people were snapping photos of them at Place Vendome. One woman, pictured here (and not Momo, lol) popped herself into the picture as though L&P were celebs on a stroll. Momo told her to scram just like any good handler would. In many languages, scram, means the same thing when said the way Momo said it. Vendome is reported to have many fine chocolatiers. We found only Godiva so we must have looked in the wrong place. L&P, having never experienced chocolate did not care, but Momo and Dad did. Did we mention is was raining? Did we mention that Momo and Dad left their raincoats in California? But L&P had theirs! Only they were stuck in Dad’s backpack and he said we all had to rough it. Geez. By the time we got home we were full of mud. Thanks Dad. L&P rate place Vendome an 8 because cute girls were swarming all over them.

Our Kitchen is Certainly Efficient - But Not Much Fun

This is a picture of our apt. kitchen. To the right is a cooktop - or it looks like one. We haven't cooked anything on it because then there would be no place to keep our coffee. The coffee pot is normal as long as you don't put the grounds where the water should go (hello?). The right side cupboard is the refrigerator. Not fun when your back is sore. And the left side has one drawer with some silverware, and a tiny itty bitty dishwasher which does not hold a dinner plate, so therefore, we can never eat dinner here (kidding). The microwave gets the most use but it has a bit of a power issue, so things take a long time to heat up. It is kind of pretty though. But my most favorite part is the little thingy on the wall above the cooktop. It is a timer. There is no clock in here, no mirror downstairs, not even three forks, but there is a timer. Just in case you want a one minute egg or to bake a cake - oh wait - in what? no oven.

Oh wait. There is a clock. It is on the microwave. It took a week for us to realize that it was telling time in that weird way - you know, 1300 hours, 1400 hours. Still won't help me bake a cake. But there you have it. A tiny apt kitchen space. BTW, the bathroom upstairs? 5x the size of the kitchen. We will discuss that another day! L&P rate the kitchen as a 10. They can see their bag of food at all times. To them, that means hope smells pretty good.

L&P Mind the Store - Sort Of

Momo and Dad left L&P in charge last night when they went to a city like 8:30 dinner. The rules were simple. Jammies, stay up till 10, no pay per view, and no long distance calls - and no take out deliveries. Do you think they listened? Ha. Not only did they take off the jammies, but there was the distinct odor of pizza lingering when we got back. Who thought to take the pizza box to the garbage? Would not be hard to order pizza in Paris. I wonder if it is a rule that there is to be at least one pizza shop per Rue? Hum.

It was our first dinner out and we very much enjoyed our Italian feast. Yes, Italian. Hey, it's not that far to Italy from here. But we have yet to have a French dinner. The food was just fantastic - full of white and black truffles. Great inexpensive wine- which is the rule here- and a good thing too. Almost 4 hours later we ambled home - a big ten minute walk- in a Paris drizzle- stuffed, tired and happy. Here is the question of the day. How come everyone says portions are smaller here? There was enough food to feed hour people - and we ate it all. I don't think walking will make those calories disappear. Oh well. One less pastry tomorrow.

BTW, as I blog this the church bells started peeling, only if I count correctly it is 3000 o'clock? Welcome to the new French President who was just sworn in?

L&P - cafe au lait and croissant with Momo

L&P took Momo out for morning cafe au lait since she seemed to need some. We went to the usual corner hang out and the nice waiter whose name we still cannot pronounce gave L&P extra special scratches and brought Momo her cafe and our croissant which we shared. Too bad Momo didn't bring something for us to put our freezing cold butts on - we did not like that. It is cold in Paris today. For some reason every time Momo says Boston Terrier, the other person nods and says, ahhh Frenchie! And the famous begging gypsies were out in force today. Three came to our table and asked if we spoke English. First time, Momo said yes too quickly and had to be mean to make her go away. The next two times she shrugged and they made nasty faces and went away. L&P are sure she shrugged in English. She must learn to shrug in oh, how about, Yiddish? That might scare them. Anyway, here we are waiting for our croissant.

L&P visit L'Arc de Triomphe

But not before taking the very crowded Sunday Metro and walking miles underground. And who placed the sortie directions down there? I cannot tell you how many miles we have walked only to come above ground I think in New York City sometimes. On the Champs Elysees, we hiked to see the L'Arc. L&P were not having much fun dodging the tourists who were here in abundance window shopping at some fabulous "French" stores like Disney, Virgin Megastore, and Tie Rack. Momo said bad words about that. L&P were annoyed with everyone who wanted to take a photo with the "French Bulldogs". Like they were rock stars. Some even followed us all the way on our walk. As you can see L'Arc was not nearly as interesting to L&P as were the young women who were following us joining L&P on the bench. In fact they took more pictures of them than we did, and were very disappointed when Tim finally made them understand that they were Boston Terriers and not Frenchies. The stalkers left. Between the Wizard of Oz weather and the strange strange crowds, we hiked back to our Metro stop and went home. But not before taking another underground tour of Paris seemingly to end up on the reverse side of the tracks (not at all). L&P rate L'Arc as a 3 out of 10. The pastry we bought got a 9 out of 10.

Oh So Very Tired

L&P seem to need a day off after a big excursion. I think the Metro takes lots of BT fortitude - I know it does for Momo. Today Dad went to work for the first time since arriving. Momo and the L&P were on their own. After a big rest the three of us went out to potty and fetch a morning pain au chocolate. Since there is not a mirror to be found on our 1st floor, Momo forgot to look at her hair. L&P could care less - they were going out to the sidewalk buffet and Momo could be naked. She was not, just for your information. But today was significant. Two people asked for directions in French. One Momo answered with a oui and a pointed finger. Ha. She was asking for the Metro St. Lazar of which there are 86 entrances..... Hope she got the right one. Then someone asked Momo to answer a survery, to which L&P graciously licked her ankles sending her scurrying away. And someone came over to see the bon chien and tell L&P what nice Frenchies they are........Oui. Momo said Boston Terrier. She asked, Frenchie? Momo said, no, BT. So L&P are now honorary Frenchies when necessary. And the sidewalk buffet? Tres Bon!

And More from Rue Joubert

This is the view out of our window. It is one corner at the head (or feet?) of Rue Joubert. The street is blocked to through traffic so it is very quiet. And around the corner are many stores of which L&P may not shop because they will spend too much. As will Momo. There are so many Metro stations around us. Almost directly under us is the RER. In Paris there is a huge underground maze of people movers in the form of trains. Just walking through Metro stations is a workout. Who needs a gym here? It is Sunday, and that means, unlike at home, everything is buttoned up tight. Very few stores are open anywhere and very few Brasseries. We were caught by surprise on your first day here which was last Sunday. Sad to say, our first meal in France was very bad pizza. We are making up for it though in pastry by the pound. And now that we know better, we loaded up on goodies for Sunday and have yet to get through the provisions and it is 8PM already. Anyone want a raspberry tart or an extra hunk of great cheese?

30 Rue Joubert

Our apartment is pretty cool. Very tiny. The kitchen is about two feet long. Our bathrooms are bigger. No oven. But a small cooktop. We have two floors and our staircase is a very old wooden spiral. L&P spent the first day here practicing walking up and down so they could do it carefully because it is slippery and narrow.

We are on the end of a small tiny street with a church right at the T intersection (out our window).and a small grocery around the corner. Both Galleries Lafayette and Printemps are right outside practically and they have lots of goodies. Giant department stores with more things and even a very fine grocery, wine shops, cafes, and brasseries every few feet. And pastry shops all around. Larger than anything I have every encountered in California or New York. Makes Bloomingdales seem like a mom and pop shop

We Are Very Very Tired

LP had a long long day and decided to stay in the next day and slumber while Momo and Dad walked and walked down Madeleine past the Madeleine Cathedral (church?). They brought us some tasty treats – bits of croissants and other goodies.

Eiffel Tower from Lulu and Phoebe's Boat

Tim thought you might enjoy a picture of the Eiffel Tower at night. Up close and personal it is something.

Lulu and Phoebe on the Seine at Night

Next, L&P take a bateau on the Seine later in the evening. Not only did they get to see many beautiful and old stone bridges, but they saw Notre Dame, and Eiffel Tower with all the lights on, and some of the most beautiful apartments in all of Paris, with a painted curved, vaulted ceiling and the most stunning artwork hanging on the walls, all from our bateau.

Lulu and Phoebe, Not Impressed with Eiffel Tower

Next, L&P take the metro to see the Eiffel Tower in the daytime from across the Seine. It is pretty darn big. Lulu is a bit bored, but Phoebe, once again, is happy because other people dropped plenty of snacks to keep her going.

L&P spent plenty of time on both the RER and the Metro. They prefer the Metro. It is snappy speedy and they can go anywhere in a flash. They also enjoy it the most when others pay lots of attention to them.

Home For the Duration: 30 Rue Joubert 75009, Paris

This is around the corner from our little apartment. It is the Paris Opera House. L&P are showing you the carriage entrance and are in fact wondering where their carriage is because they are very tired of walking by now. It is a breathtaking piece of architecture.

C'est Bulldog Francais

Apparently Momo and Dad don’t know enough French to get our stroller when they get off the plane. So they carry us for miles through the strangest passageways to get our luggage and to take us to potty. Only we have to go through some line where everyone is waiting, but it goes quickly. That is, if everyone else would stop moving in front of us in line. We finally get to the front and no one even bothers to looks at L&P or ask for our papers. Momo and Dad get lost finding our luggage. Momo is trying to find the stroller and finally realizes that it is still at the gate where they plane landed. They bring it to her and our brand new pretty stroller is torn and looked like it got eaten by some machine. Oh oh. Not the words Momo used, but it means the same thing. Finally after walking in circles Momo and Dad find out how to get the car and we get to go outside to potty. WHERE? No grass? On the curb? You are kidding? Lulu was against this plan from the beginning and it took three days for her to relent. She almost held it for three days. Phoebe had a c’est la vie attitude. As long as she didn’t have to clean it up.

We Must Behave - We Must Behave

Getting upgraded is pretty cool, but remember to never never get a middle seat, even in Business unless you are traveling with the person on the aisle. It can get pretty cozy when everyone stretches out for the sleepy time at night and you have to get up and go pee. Momo that is – I had to hold it for hours. No one asked L&P if they needed a potty.

The good news is that traveling in Business, under the seat means tucked up against the seat in front of you which is millions of feet away. Our Sturdibags fit sideways and they weren’t squished at all. The flight staff loved us and kept coming over to give us scratches so our bag tops were open most of the time. We slept just like everyone else.

That wasn’t so bad. Also, from the look on Momo’s face, we knew that if we made one peep, it would be bad news cause all those people were quite fussy about almost everything. Geez – we would have been happy with just the cheese and crackers.

Through Security We Go All by Ourselves.....

If you want to know how good our TSA is doing just ask Momo. She has a lot to say about that. I know cause I had to listen to her. At least everything got through the security even though it seemed like we practically unpacked and undressed to get through it. Good thing the nice man on the other side likes dogs cause they made us go first and we would have kept going if the nice man had not picked us up and put us in a plastic bin on a rolly thing that scared Phoebe. But then Momo rescued us just as we reached the end and were going to smash to the floor. Phew.

Lines and More Lines

There is a 50 pound per bag weight limit for international flights. It says so right on the airline website in big letters. Did you hear that all you people who repacked your bags at the international ticket check-in counters making the rest of us wait? L&P had a wonderful time smelling all the fine underwear and sox and shoes that came flying out of bags onto the floor as travelers repacked to meet the weight limits to avoid paying more money. And that is why we stood in line for more than an hour. But it was worth it. The nice lady who never even said hello to L&P let them upgrade from economy to business. Cool. L&P got to fly in the front of the plane where they give out nighty night socks and eye masks – the sox were nice to chew, but the eye masks were way to confusing and didn’t fit their little smooshed faces.

Back at Dulles. Oh My.

Now here we are at Dulles which is an airport the size of a small city. Good thing Momo and Dad had our stroller. They didn’t put us in our bags until we had to go to the plane. It was hard having to hold going potty for so long. Next time I might request a depends for dogs in a petite size for me and extra large for Phoebe. I was wondering why they kept taking me out in the freezing cold rain to pee before we found the plane. Sigh.

Alien Dogs Cost Big Dollars at Residence Inn

Now here we are in our hotel room near Dulles. See, we were smart to pack our food. Momo and Dad had to order bad food take out because for some reason there was not one restaurant anywhere near by (thank you travel agent person). They were very cranky. Not us. We were wondering where Momo and Dad would sleep since we claimed the big bed. Turns out we all had to share. Bummer. They snore. And the hotel charged more for us, than for Momo and Dad for the night! Mon Dieu.

First Flight on Jetblue to Dulles

Here we are under the seat on Jetblue which is a very nice airline. Everyone is very friendly. And guess what? You know how they get all that great legroom? They shorten the seats to bench width pretty much. Momo’s rear kept slipping off. Perhaps if she hadn’t had her morning bagel for the past million years it would have fit better….. But we fit under the seat even with squishing our Sturdibags. Aside from the rather rocket like take off, we slept our way to the east coast. After all, no one bothered to feed L&P any
breakfast (and what was up with that?) and we did get up very early.

And How We Got There in Style!

Here we are in our stroller condo using Sturdibags and Graco’s new car seat stroller minus the car seat. Fits our Sturdibags pretty well and L&P did not have to listen to Momo and Dad whine about carrying us through the monster airports.

Getting to Paris

Lulu and Phoebe (L&P) demonstrate what it takes to get to Paris from California. First, pack every single toy and good chewie. Next, pack your finest tee shirts and sweaters and don’t forget the raincoats because it rains in Paris. Then, make sure you have gobs of your own food, some treats, and a few favorite blankies. If there is room left over, momo and dad can pack a few of their own things.